The Unsung Beauty of Poland

By Mary-Liz McGrath

Poland has been somewhat neglected in the past as a European tourist destination, with the exception of course being trips to Auschwitz-Birkenau. I’m here to tell you why, if you haven’t already, this is one continental destination you absolutely have to see, and not just for World War history.

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In the last blog, you may remember me mentioning my 2017 trip to Poland, the one that was originally supposed to be a cycle from Warsaw to Krakow. Well in this blog I’m going to tell you what myself and David Hurley actually ended up doing, as our ‘Plan B’.

The morning after our flight to Warsaw, we hopped on a bus bound for Krakow. It met us just outside the Palace of Culture and Science, a building that sticks out like a sore Communist thumb in the more-or-less low-rise city. The first thing that struck me when we arrived at our destination, was just how lush and green the city was. The streets all seemed to be lined with bushy trees, while ample green spaces punctuated the concrete rhythm of the downtown area. So voluminous was the foliage, that it was actually quite annoying; it blocked our view of this architectural stunner from the park bench, where we sat eating our novelty ‘Vegab’ kebabs. A nonproblem, I know.

Amazing Foliage Blocking Our View

After our brief sojourn al fresco, it was straight onto another bus, this time to the hiking/ski resort village of Zakopane, which sits just a few kilometres north of the precipitous Slovakian border.

Zakopane is one of those places that’s so beautiful it just steals your heart and takes your breath away. For real though, the mountaintops are super exposed and windy, and I did actually have a panic attack in which my heart ended up in my mouth (it was because I looked down over the cliff edge, bad idea). But almost losing your life with terror as you shuffle along a cliff edge holding a bolted chain is definitely worth it for the views. And if the ninety-year-old nun in front of you can do it, so can you. I’m not kidding, there were actual nuns scrambling up those mountains in their full robes and wimples, it was a sight to behold.

It all calms down however on the way back through the Alpine meadows, and if your legs get tired there’re these sweet little mountain cabins dotted along all the routes where you can have a little rest.

What’s more, there are several little shepherd’s huts nestled here and there serving a special kind of local cheese called Oscypek, which is made from a mixture of cow and sheep’s milk. The smoked cheese is intricately decorated with lozenge and cross-hatch patterns, and has an incredibly rich flavour, as well as a unique rubbery texture. It comes in three different shapes, oval, barrel and spindle, and is the perfect snack after a long day hiking in the sun. The spindle-shaped variety is actually protected as a ‘regional product’ under EU law.

Shepherds' Huts

In case you haven’t noticed already, I’m a BIG fan of Polish food. While grub is a bit on the pricey side in Zakopane, you can generally find good rustic food at a reasonable price if you venture a little off the beaten path in other parts of Poland. While there you absolutely have to try some of the traditional delicacies, such as pierogi (dumplings), pig trotters, and kiszona kapusta (sauerkraut), which is often served with delicious Polish sausage. Polish beer is, of course, the perfect accompaniment, just be sure to take your neckerchief off before you dive in. This is especially important in Poland, as many Scouts there take a vow not to consume alcohol.

Mountain storms

Another thing that was terrifyingly beautiful were the Summer storms over the mountains: Big swirling eddies that battered the pines, lightning striking the valleys around us, clamorous thunder and rainfall. The storms passed quickly though, going as fast as they came. Once you keep on top of the weather forecast and stay sheltered in a sturdy man-made structure you should be absolutely fine.

Back in Warsaw, the domineering structure of the Palace of Science and Culture is full of grandeur and opulence; with its lavish chandeliers, marble staircases, and ornate parquet ceilings. Stalin’s ‘gift’ to the city.

It’s a little bit out from the main tourist centre of Warsaw, but the Neon Museum is absolutely fascinating, the quirkiest history lesson you’ll ever have.

Warsaw old town is quaint, colourful, and surprisingly romantic, like something out of a medieval fantasy. Some of the buildings even remain lit at night, perfect for an evening jaunt before hitting the bars (again, take your necker off!).

Despite all the work we’d put into planning our cycle route, and all the money we’d spent on gear, I’m glad it didn’t work out. Plan B transpired to be totally incredible.

Sometimes these things happen for a reason.

But don’t just take my word for it: Scouting Ireland will be sending a contingent to Poland for EuroJam 2020. There, you’ll be able to experience the country’s beauty first hand as a volunteer on the ‘International Service Team’ (IST). Better get applying!